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Travel and Leisure named San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato, Mexico the “best city in the world” in 2017, 2018, and again in 2021. It’s not difficult to see this quaint yet sprawling town’s appeal. San Miguel de Allende’s narrow streets invite travelers to explore every nook and cranny. Each unassuming alley leads to an undiscovered treasure.

There is a seemingly endless selection of restaurants and cafés and the city comes to life after dark. Evenings are filled with live music, rooftop cocktails, and giant paper-mâché mojigangas taking every opportunity to make tourists uncomfortable and bomb their photos. The landmark Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel draws daily crowds eager to visit and photograph its famous pink facade.

My friend Tim originally wrote this article after our visit to San Miguel de Allende in 2018. He has since shut down his travel blog but I feel this is too important a topic to go unread. He has allowed me to republish it here on MWL to help give you a deeper look into this “charming” city before you solidify your travel plans.

San Miguel de Allende in a nutshell © Tim Van Der Linden

Behind San Miguel de Allende’s charm

However, much like the neo-Gothic face they added to the front of the Parroquia 200 years after the original construction of the church, the city of San Miguel de Allende presents visitors with a charming facade that hides the true nature of life in the city.

(As Ashley says in her post on San Miguel de Allende travel tips, “Travel and Leisure readers voting San Miguel de Allende the “world’s best city” tells me everything I need to know about Travel and Leisure readers.”)

Visiting San Miguel de Allende: a visitor’s perspective

San Miguel de Allende’s many glowing reviews drew me to this city. Eager to experience the charming city streets at sunset, I headed to one of its many famous rooftop bar/restaurants. The city certainly didn’t disappoint in that respect. The endearing streets dazzle visitors with their walls of colorful buildings and hidden courtyards. Magical sunsets light up the streets and buildings in a sort of indescribable neon pastel glow.

My Airbnb host, an American expat, was eager to describe the vast activity options this city has to offer. She enthusiastically tipped me off about organic farmers markets, cafes galore, art galleries, wine tasting, spas and upscale dining.

Although I appreciated her efforts, I was really more interested in the local experience not the city’s many luxury offerings. As it turns out, those options really do reflect the local experience these days.

New York Magazine’s Love Note to San Miguel de Allende is a perfect example of everything that is wrong with the direction the city is going. The author simultaneously waxes poetic about the city’s simple pleasures while recommending hotels that start at $340 per night and “wellness-centered cooking courses” taught by an expat, because of course.

Don’t get me wrong, I can absolutely appreciate splurging on travel. However, these things go against what is at the heart of San Miguel de Allende – the local people who have made it what it is today.

If you’re planning to visit San Miguel de Allende for Día de los Muertos, be sure to check out my post on celebrating Day of the Dead in Mexico as a foreigner.

Don’t expect the small village experience

I’m an unapologetic sucker for quaint villages that have an authentic, local feel to them and expected the same of San Miguel de Allende. While it certainly has its local flair, the city also felt like a downright tourist trap.

With tourism being the number one industry in San Miguel de Allende, I can hardly fault them for catering to visitors, but there is a distinct difference between experiencing what life is actually like there and seeing cultural demonstrations that are manufactured for tourists to feel like they’re seeing a different culture.

The city’s central Jardín Allende (apparently referred to as “Gringo Gulch” by the locals) explodes with activity at all hours of the day, but it’s not the romanticized notion of locals who can’t help but express their culture. It’s mariachi bands singing for tips, giant mojigangas gleefully posing with photos with tourists and hat vendors wading through the crowds of tourists and expats to make a living. Does this sound like typical daily life or a mini Mexican Disneyland featuring culture porn for tourists’ consumption?

Honestly, Mexico City feels way less manufactured and real than it does here. Consider CDMX instead and check out these 15 incredible Mexico City experiences when you get there.

Beyond that, San Miguel de Allende is a crowded city. During the day, vehicles choke the narrow streets. Come nighttime, the Jardin is bustling with people. This is great and all, unless you’re trying to get a shot of the sunset. In this case, it becomes a competitive sport.

Photo © Tim Van Der Linden

San Miguel de Allende’s history of cultural imperialism and foreign gentrification

The issues prevalent in San Miguel de Allende aren’t a new problem to the city. In fact, beyond the Spanish conquest of the Aztecs that pervaded all of Mexico, this city was an early poster child for the Europeanization of Mexico.

San Miguel de Allende is literally named after the Franciscan friar who prolifically converted natives to Christianity. This city was founded on the principles of converting local cultures to fit foreign standards.

This attitude has been pervasive throughout its entire history and continues to be a dominant theme of the city today. Even the city’s signature landmark, the Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel, features an updated European design plastered over the front 30 feet of the original church.

You can see the difference between the Neo-Gothic facade and the old architecture here. Please excuse the grade school Photoshop job © Tim Van Der Linden

Likewise, during the reign of Mexican president Porfirio Díaz known widely as the Porfiriato, he (a Francophile) ordered the reconstruction of many cities in the French style—including San Miguel’s central Jardín Allende. It features iron benches and decoratively trimmed trees that stand to his day.

© Tim Van Der Linden

We can trace the current influx of white expats back to 1938 when American artist Stirling Dickinson established an art institute here. This institute subsequently attracted more American artists after World War II who were able to study abroad under the GI Bill.

San Miguel de Allende’s reputation as a cultural hub quickly solidified and remains to this day. This is not to say that Mr. Dickinson failed to help locals as well (he actually quite disliked the influx of Americans to the city – seriously, read that article, it’s fantastic), but he certainly set the tone for the future of San Miguel de Allende.

San Miguel de Allende and the expat impact

The city of San Miguel de Allende’s population currently stands at around 60,000 people (and roughly 175,000 in the greater municipality), with about 10,000 of that number consisting of expats.

Just look at this CNN article featuring expat life in San Miguel de Allende, with the youngest interviewee being 52 years old. I found this to be largely representative of the expat demographics in the city as well. I don’t have any problem with expat living, but when almost 20% of a Mexican city’s population consists of older, well-to-do white people, there will inevitably be an impact on the local population.

This impact is most easily measured in the price of rent and real estate. The average house price is $540,000 USD in the city and the income to rent ratio makes San Miguel de Allende more unaffordable than San Francisco!

One of my travel companions summed the culmination of these statistics best. After paying $3 USD for a 30-minute taxi ride, she exclaimed “how does anyone afford to live here?” I had difficulty figuring that out for myself and I still don’t think I know the answer.

Poverty remains a big problem in San Miguel de Allende

The issue of income inequality in San Miguel de Allende is not as simple as rich expats versus struggling locals. Some of the statistics about the city’s demographics, however, shocked me. For starters, 48.56% of the population of the “best city in the world” is in “moderate” or “extreme” poverty.

Here are some of the other 2020 statistics concerning San Miguel de Allende:

  • 63% of the population over the age of 15 has only a middle school education or less
  • 8% of residents do not have access to sewage systems (that’s 14,400 people without a toilet)
  • 11.42% of homes do not have access to healthcare (2015 CONEVAL report)
  • 14.72% of homes do not have a refrigerator
  • 8% illiteracy rate in people over the age of 15

Additionally, CONEVAL* named San Miguel de Allende as having the highest level of income inequality in all of Mexico. *(The National Council for the Evaluation of Social Development Policy)

One nuance of these statistics to consider is that these numbers are for the municipality and not the city alone. However, seeing them still shocked me. San Miguel de Allende trails behind the rest of the state in nearly every category besides access to health services.

What is being done?

As shocking as these statistics may be, they actually represent huge strides in improvements over the last several years. There are a number of great charities working with the local population to provide healthcare and education to locals. Also, the Mexical Social Infrastructure Fund (FAIS) has been making significant strides with providing people with access to basic services.

Many of the local expat-run activities actively donate their proceeds to charity. This is simultaneously encouraging and somewhat ironic. The people partially responsible for driving up housing prices are making some effort to improve the lives of impoverished locals.

What can I do as a tourist to San Miguel de Allende?

First of all, don’t retire and move to San Miguel de Allende and buy an expensive house! On the other side of the coin, however, don’t avoid visiting the city just because of its issues.

All of San Miguel de Allende’s population relies heavily on tourism. Skipping your visit would exacerbate the problems it already faces. However, there are some great ways to support locals on your visit to San Miguel de Allende.

Skip the fancy stuff & support local businesses

Instead of the corporate-owned luxury hotel, find a locally (non-expat) owned rental home or boutique hotel. You can view host profiles to get a rough idea of whether you’re supporting a local resident or contributing to another real estate empire.

In a similar vein, try and seek out locally owned restaurants and avoid dining in hotels. Ask around and see what most people recommend; it’s a better way to dine anyways. And don’t skip the street food!

Where to stay in San Miguel de Allende

Check out these locally owned (non-expat) vacation rentals in San Miguel de Allende and some booking tips below:

    Divino Depto (Divine Apartment)

    2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, fully equipped kitchen, and a beautiful patio with lake views. Large, colorful, modern, and pet-friendly!

    Casa de Aduende

    Whole house, 4 bedrooms that can sleep up to 10 people. Tons of space in a cool property!

    Casa de los Ángeles

    3 bedroom house for up to 5 adults (or 7 if there are 2 kids). Listed as a Travel Sustainable Property.

    Casa Rosario

    Whole house, 5 minute walk to the center, big terrace with amazing views. Says 1 bedroom but I count at least three. Also says sleeps 10? Either way, this place is beautiful!

    A few tips when searching for locally-owned properties:

    • Always read host profiles – this will give you a good idea as to the kind of business you’re supporting. Trust me, they’ll talk allll about how they fell in love with San Miguel de Allende but still live in Los Angeles/San Francisco/Dallas, etc. for most of the year.
    • If there isn’t a host profile, stay away. The other side of that is that they just don’t want you to know who you’re supporting.
    • If you check out a lot of different rental options and you notice they all have identical/similar profiles, that’s a sign you’re contributing to an expat’s real estate empire.
    • Bonus points if the listing is 100% in Spanish and they don’t list English as one of their “languages spoken.”
    • If the owner’s phone number starts with +1, there’s a good chance it’s expat-owned and run from the U.S.
    • It’s much harder to find locally-owned properties on Airbnb as that’s an expat’s dream platform. Also, you won’t find any on VRBO either because of a new tax structure the state imposed on them. However, I’ve found a lot more by filtering specifically for “vacation homes” in San Miguel de Allende on Booking.com. (Check the “vacation homes” box on the left side of the page.)

    Support San Miguel de Allende’s charitable activities

    Again, many of the expat-run activities in San Miguel de Allende donate all of their proceeds to charity. Some of the options include:

    Photo © Tim Van Der Linden

    Buy local souvenirs

    I was critical earlier about the hat vendor roaming the Jardin in an attempt to make a living. However, while the touristy aspect does make San Miguel de Allende less appealing to me as a whole, these people need the help of travelers.

    Buy your souvenirs from local vendors who clearly have stake in the game. Skip the high end art gallery and buy a painting from a street vendor. And while you’re at it grab one of those hats because it’s Mexico and it’s always sunny! Don’t forget to check out the local flea markets as well for just about any of your needs.

    Avoid contributing to crime: don’t give handouts

    As much as it hurts to walk past suffering people on the street, giving to beggars reinforces horrific practices like organized crime, human trafficking, and child mutilation that will continue for as long as they get money from tourists.

    Need help getting around in Mexico? The ADO bus system is fantastic… if you can figure out how to buy tickets. If you’re having trouble, check out this guide to Mexico’s ADO bus system.

    San Miguel de Allende wasn’t for me, but it might be for you

    San Miguel de Allende wasn’t my kind of destination. I’d much rather spend my time in Mexico City, which I completely fell in love with.

    At the same time, I can’t let the gentrification of San Miguel de Allende stop me from telling you to visit. Just be aware that it is not exactly a city for the young, adventure-loving traveler.

    The vast majority of people I’ve spoken to have loved their visits to this charming city. However, my group of friends all found it quite overrated.

    Photo © Tim Van Der Linden
    Photo © Tim Van Der Linden

    If you’re considering a visit, take my experiences into account but by all means don’t let it stop you from strolling the cobblestone streets and taking in the rooftop views. All I ask is that you skip the luxury spa and don’t spend a million dollars on a house there.

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    60 Comments

    1. I suppose I am in the minority in this group but I have been an ex-pat living in Mexico for 20 years and I love SMA. I just bought a home in SMA and yes, it was rather pricey to say the least. I live on a rather small, fixed income so I enjoy the low cost of living here versus California where I am from. i agree with the author that SMA is like a Mexican Disneyland but as a former Disneyland employee I rather like the association. I am a retired artist and I am glad that there are many rich expats here to buy the overpriced art works in the local galleries as it helps support the economy of SMA and allows me to enjoy looking at excellent artworks and not the cheap reproductions that are available on the streets.

      Reply
    2. Jeffrey Johnson says:

      I was in San Miguel a few months ago for the first time. It was lovely, but I felt an underlying growing resentment from the local youth towards the expats. In fact they threw rocks at one of the tour buses. Also, there was a shanty town on an undeveloped lot next to the beautiful home I was staying at and a group of men lived there under huts made of discarded wood and sheet metal. I would go out onto the street and see men across street whistle to ones behind wall. Once I heard the scream of a woman, but then the dogs started barking and drowned it out. I wondered if they had kidnapped a woman and took her into the huts. They also dug a tunnel that come up into the patio of home I stayed at next door and the owners called police and covered tunnel with wood sheets and huge potted plants. It is a shady sketchy place for sure. But heck Kramer from CNBC owned a house two doors down on the other side of vacant lot. It definitely is a town of the have and have nots.

      Reply
      1. Peter Watson says:

        My husband and I went to San Miguel for the first time in December. The first (and only) night we were there we were attacked by a group of younger men who were drunk and obviously anti American as they were saying anti-American things in Spanish. We live in another part of Mexico and have never experienced any issues until we went to San Miguel. We left the next morning and will never return. I agree that the huge wealth gap is likely breeding resentment among some locals.

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    3. Drue Mathies says:

      I am pleased to say that I’ve thouroughly enjoyed my stay here in San Miguel. It is a very beautiful city and the local folks that I’ve met are kind and helpful. I can’t say that about most American cities, be they tourist traps or not. I believe that one’s attitude determines whether one enjoys their adventure. If one is searching for reasons to criticize, one will certainly find things to fulfill that search. The Aztecs weren’t the first folks here, you know. They slaughtered the locals before they enslaved the survivors. But, I digress….

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    4. Courtney Threlkeld says:

      Thank you so much for your honesty… I was most certainly being fooled by San Miguel’s charm in the media, but now my eyes are a bit more open and I am now thinking of perhaps moving to Mexico City instead of San Miguel de Allende. Thanks again and good luck in all of your future endeavors.

      Reply

      1. Thank you Courtney! I have friends who live/lived in Mexico City and they absolutely loved it!

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      2. We live in Aguascalientes and were attacked on our first night in San Miguel de Allende. We will never go back to there or other small towns. The illusion of safety is just that. I lived kn Chicago for almost 30 years and never experienced what we went through there in one night in December 2023. Be careful!

        Reply

    5. I lived full time for two years in the heart of SMA. Yes, the city has sold its soul to tourism. AirBnB’s are often full of rich kids from Mexico City who party all night while blasting rap at 160 decibels. The lovely old Mexican families have mostly moved out of Centro, and their homes are now rooftop bars or small hotels. Touring the main square is more like visiting Disneyland -it is no longer an authentic Mexican city- not at all. It looks good, but don’t be deceived.

      Reply

    6. There is no tourist city in the world that does not have its overpriced and glitzy facade as well as it’s true cultural roots if one takes the time to find the soul of the city. I would never live anywhere else.
      Passing people on the street in San Miguel entails eye contact and a greeting unlike the profound paranoia in the US..I smile constantly here because it is a joyful life.
      Although some wealthy expats are entitled, selfish and cheap, most of the Nonprofits that benefit the poor were founded and are supported by the expat community. There are over 100 nonprofits supported by those of us who feel that it is our duty to give back for our blessed life here.
      And where in the world has the housing market not excluded the poor and added to homelessness and poverty? You could fill in the names of any large city in the US. And your article would read the same.
      You bring up some very good points and I agree that our local government does as little as they can for the poor. Our political system is riddled with corruption and greed. However, unlike the US.., it is not the source of hatred and the mass slaughter of innocent people. 85% of cartel-related homicides entail guns purchased in the US..
      I could go on….but.. but the old saying….”life is what you make it” is true here. I have personally found my tribe of faithful friends, have a beautiful and reasonable apartment, attend the many free or inexpensive cultural events , work in free,remote spay clinics for dogs and cats, and teach art at a low income daycare. My life is blessed and full because of all San Miguel has to offer. It is an individual experience here, and …to me….it is the best city in the world.

      Reply
      1. Andreas Eichler says:

        My sentiments exactly. Although we don’t live in SMA we visit our daughter’s family regularly and love the place and kind people we’ve encountered.

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      2. SMA is a beautiful special place! There are downsides to every popular destination. If you’re looking for something NOT to like you’ll always find it! Apparently you haven’t been to Mexico City recently because it is full of expats now, young and old. And the high price for rents and sales reflect that. The world is much smaller now, those little “unknown “ gems have already been discovered so just go with it! Enjoy what makes each place different and special! Even if you have to fight off a few tourists to do it!

        Reply
    7. Steve Crawley says:

      San Miguel wasn’t designed for so many people and cars. It can be absolutely miserable on a holiday or even a weekend. In my opinion, Querétaro, which is only 1/2 hour away is a much more livable city, with more big city conveniences and more affordable housing. It’s also quite safe and has a beautiful colony center.

      Reply

      1. Good to know, Steve. I’ve never been to Querétaro but I’ve definitely heard about it.

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      2. I am so glad you painted a negative destination of San Miguel so that tourist will not come. I am really sorry you didn’t see the magic that San Miguel has to offer the real tourist that love Mexico and San Miguel. Sure, the climate has changed in SMA since we first visited SMA 20 years ago, but we still love it along with expats who visit long term or permanent residence. The weekly tourists visitors do go to high end restaurants and take in the Centro weekend activities, but as we do, we never go into the Centro on weekends for that reason. We frequent local restaurants and local activities which are many. Look, the tourism in San Miguel has increased along with the hi end Glist.
        But, it does provide mire income for the locals regardless of your stats. ASKS the locals HOW the feel and the will tell they love the direction of where SMA is going, HAVE OR DID TALK TO ANY OK THE LOCALS, FACTs!!!!!!!
        Please don’t come back to SMA!!!!!!!!!!

        Reply
        2. CM Ellison says:

          Having lived in San Miguel de Allende as an American (first in 2008 and then again in 2016), I can say the city has changed dramatically. Beyond the cartels moving in between those years and the clogged, overrun streets and pollution, SMA is a victim of its own success and has lost much of its soul. Living there in 2008-2009 was exceptional (and safe) before the hordes of tourists (both American and Mexican) overtook the city by 2016.

          I fully expected this article to address the dark underbelly of crime in SMA, which is a reality, unfortunately. In 2008, we had no problem walking around late at night and felt safe. For the second round in 2016, I found myself looking over my shoulder in broad daylight. The expat network of communication is quick and efficient — spend any time in SMA beyond a month and you will soon learn of the common incidences of kidnapping, rape, shootings, murder, property theft, muggings, bombings and all the rest that the news outlets don’t report.

          As far as how the locals feel, it’s a mixed bag. Many are resentful — I would say a majority of your average person there. Even those who own businesses and directly benefit from the influx grudgingly admit they would rather we all go home.

          We have also lived in Puebla and loved it. Hardly anyone spoke English and it felt authentic culturally. The people were lovely and there were very few tourists. At least, that’s how it was in 2012. Not sure if it has been ‘discovered’ now and ruined like SMA.

          Reply
      3. Albert Newman says:

        Queretaro is actually about 1.5 hours away by car.

        Reply
        1. Rick Emmerich says:

          Queretaro is about 60 minutes by car, just sayin´. There is a Costco there and other box stores, and those of us that are locals consider it a safer drive than the one to rather dangerous Celaya. Celaya is about 45 minutes by car.

          Reply

    8. I am grateful to have known San Miguel in the 1960’s when it did have more of a small community feeling, and where, even as a child, I was safe wandering around alone. The group of expats was much smaller, and, while they certainly had an impact locally, they didn’t dominate anything. The spectre of great throngs of tourists and an emphasis on everything being so ultra/ultra is dismaying to consider.

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    9. Karen Ash Schmidt says:

      After 6 years of full time living in San Miguel I can understand the thoughts and comments – but we would not live anywhere else. Lumping everyone into “white Expats” is not accurate. Every person has a different background and different requirement for “happiness”.
      I do oppose your link to Viator Tours as being anywhere near Local and authentic. The prices are outrageous and you’re adding to your stated “problem”. The company FOLLOW ME TOURS is locally owned offers registered guides at half the price. (Not affiliated. Use on a regular basis for guests.)

      Reply

    10. Thank you for shining light on this. Topics like these are important to discuss, specially when communities are being affected and marginalized behind the scenes. My father is from Guanajuato, and I have family who live in San Miguel de Allende. In one of my recent trips I recall going into a store, “Fisher Weisman Collection” and was shocked to see that they were selling earrings for $400, and the owner describing the price as “not expensive”. The first thing I could think of was, asking myself when would a native local ever afford this?, I found it disgusting actually. And it made me really think of the dismissive perception that a lot of white privileged people have. Almost as if there is a lack of self-awareness about what they are doing. There are also studies on the effects of the migration of expats to San Miguel de Allende and the strain that it is putting on locals, economically, culturally, and psychologically.

      Reply

      1. Thank you for your comment, Robert! Yes, to say there is a lack of self-awareness is an understatement actually. I get a lot of hate comments in response to this post, and they’re all from white American expats telling me I’m wrong. I also get a lot of requests from SMA “locals” who would like me to feature their “local” activity and such. And every single time, these “local” activities are hosted by white American expats. It’s shocking how oblivious some people continue to be.

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      2. Cheryl Lagueux says:

        I lived in SMA in the early 1970s. My husband student taught at the Instituto while earning his MFA. In those years San Miguel was still charming, with flowing fountains on every street corner, open air laundry at the Parque Juarez, flower market and many small tiendas. There was no laundromat or large grocery stores and very few cars. The bus station was in the center by the market. All that said, I returned to my beloved town 20 years later and was dismayed at the changes. The bus station was moved out of town, cars were everywhere and upscale restaurants and hotels were popping up all over. The rushing waterworks that aerated and supplied the water to the center were closed, the small fountains no longer flowed. I saw no vendors with burros selling their wares door to door or the ladies selling “gorditas” on the street on the way to the Instituto. I realize things change and progress is inevitable but it felt like something of the town’s soul had been sold. Although we were considered foreigners we embraced the culture and ways of the town and never minded the lack of conveniences we grew up with. It was a romantic adventure because of our youth I suppose but I was disheartened to see what the town has become 50 years on.

        Reply
    11. Mary Montano Memmons says:

      I live in Santa Fe, New Mexico. In fact, I raised my children here as a struggling single mother. We used to say that the tourists never met any real Santa Feans. And the place is much more of a tourist destination today. Likely tourists still don’t meet any locals, except those who work in the htoels and restaurants. It’s interesting that you could write a very similar article about Santa Fe. There are even two languages here. And you won’t be getting any million dollar house her near our “centro.” Better bring a few more million.

      But, you know, we’ve grown to like our tourist ways. It took a while. It’s a business, and that’s the business our city is in. We don’t have factories or a tech center or any of that. We have artists, and artists need wealthy people to buy their work. It’s a fact. All we can do is be quaint and different, show you a good time, and take your money with gratitude. Then we live our lives, glad some of us can still live here because of all the people who visit. Possibly there are people in San Miguel who feel the same.

      I guess, overall, I agree with you. If you don’t want to live in a place like San Miguel, it is better to hit one of the smaller Mexican towns. They are lovely, and local, and not likely to be filled with expats who want to teach a cooking class to other expats.

      Reply

      1. Thank you for your insight, Mary! I’ll keep this in mind for when I visit Santa Fe.

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    12. Excellent blog!
      I went to SMA in 2017 and loved it. I had stayed in an airbnb hosted by an older Mexican couple who were super interesting, smart, and fun. Thus, this was a contributing factor to enjoying the city. However, I observed the differences in social status and economic power. What impressed me the most was my feeling of indigenous kids being ignored… as if they were invisible. But I love the land.
      I went back in April 2022, with the idea to check it out seriously and see if I would like to buy land there. This time I stayed at an airbnb hosted by an American. She was very friendly and ready to recommend places and things to do. She was also super ready to sell me CBD (made in my home state!), beauty products, etc.
      I was going with my eyes wide open this time and observed exactly what you mentioned in this article.
      If older white Americans were moving to SMA to retire, they will create jobs and generate prosperity among locals. But they are retiring and creating expensive businesses that push up prices and run over local competitors.
      In addition, there is a layer of white Americans with not many resources, who also are into generating profit. Thus, taking local people’s opportunities.
      I also saw ex-pats that were working as dentists, chiropractors, etc. without a license! This also takes away good paid jobs from local people.
      It is gross how ex-pats are after one’s money.
      On this trip, I felt attacked by ex-pats birds of prey.
      The ex-pat community contributes to charity but sometimes it is for tax purposes.
      The solution is not charity organizations but good regulations. The government should have different tax structures for ex-pats, increase the laughable property tax, demand professional licenses, demand working visas, etc.
      SMA is beautiful but the gentrification is a bummer.

      BTW, I agree with you, Mexico City is a vibrant and beautiful city but I was looking for a city with more nature right outside its limit. Any suggestions would be appreciate it :o)

      Reply
    13. Manuel Razo says:

      San Miguel Allende has its flaws, but it is still one of the most charming cities in Mexico. It is crowded during most weekends and holidays, but I ask, isn’t Mexico City or popular destinations crowded during holidays or weekends? I thoroughly enjoy San Miguel. I was born not too far away from there and have talked to locals who have adapted to the increasing expat community. Most are grateful that they have been given the opportunity to work and don’t seem to mind them since they come and appreciate the Mexican culture. Ironically, most local San Miguel locals complain about the Mexico City visitors since they seem to look down upon the local San Miguel locals not the expats. And in regards to the European influence in San Miguel, you can look back in history and that all of Latin America towns have some way or another been influenced by European settlers. The Jardín designs for the most part follow the same design established originally by the Spanish where you have a jardín principal that is typically near the central church and was established so locals would gather. Almost all of the small towns in Mexico are designed this way.
      You say that San Miguel is overrated, it is not for everyone, just like chocolate is not for everyone.

      Reply
    14. Mike Sullivan says:

      How can you NOT talk about the crime there?

      In November 2021 a basket of severed heads was found in a community about 25 km from San Miguel! The killings have slowed down… But… It’s not just cartel related now. Home invasions are big too. You couldn’t pay me to live in the countryside of San Miguel… Far too dangerous.

      And now the old mayor has been reelected… The gut with vsrtel involvement,… Trejo!

      Reply

      1. Hi Mike,
        I haven’t been able to find any information whatsoever on the severed head incident you mentioned. Can you send me a link that talks about this?

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        1. San Miguel is FILLED with young families with kids these days and that demographic is growing like crazy. There are 2 Waldorf schools, growing as fast as they can, both with wait lists, Montessori schools, a huge homeschooling/world schooling community. And a big thriving teen activity group. We have new friends come to town every week. It is very much the young, adventurous crowd, about half Mexicans and half the US and other countries around the world. (And since covid, the older expat crowd is leaving in droves.) There are very few places that cater to us: we mostly eat at and hang out at local Mexican places because of everything you mentioned in your article. I predict that more and more cool, hip, Mexico City-style middle class restaurants and business will pop up in the next few years, because the fancy, touristy centro garbage is tired, and we are ready for more accessible places to hang out. I’d love to see actual travellers, hippies, and young artists return to San Miguel.

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    15. Ginamarie says:

      I live in San Miguel de Allende, seven months into my first year.
      I consider a $3 taxi ride one of the greatest bargains anywhere in the world. What on earth is she complaining about?
      Has she ever taken a 30 minute taxi ride for less?
      My impression is that the American opportunists that have swooped into to exploit the economic structure all throughout Mexico spoil the beauty everywhere they go – Italy, Greece, Ecuador- Mexico. But that is the name of their game – to collect the spoils.
      And their target audience is other Americans.
      It disgusts me if I let my thoughts linger on it for even a moment, but I avoid any occasion to mingle with this sort of high priced low level consciousness.
      Ignoring the American capitalistic greed that permeates everything on earth that offers up genuine beauty and earthly riches, San Miguel de Allende is splendid on its own.

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      1. Thank you for your comment Ginamarie! The sentence about the taxi can easily be misread. What she was saying was, if these locals are only making $3 per 30-minute cab ride, then how on earth can they afford to live in such a high-priced city. Does that clear it up? He could have (and probably should have) charged us $50 US and we wouldn’t have batted an eye.

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        1. Leo Newhouse says:

          I was in SMA this past spring. My wife and I were charged $12.00 were a 15-minute taxi ride. The taxi cab–like many if not most taxis–though not Ubers–in SMA–was in poor shape and was saturated with exhaust fumes. I’m certain we were overcharged because we were “gringos.”

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      2. Diane I Standley says:

        I think you missed the point about the $3 taxi ride. So here’s the point…how does a taxi driver survive when a 30 minute taxi ride is $3? How does he exist when the cost of living in SMA is so high? That was the point.

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    16. Linda Dowling says:

      I can confirm that in the late 1960’s SMA was still the authentic Mexican. very small town with few foreigners and tourists struggling with dictionaries to understand the price from the morning gotdita cart vendor who benevolently smiled trying to collect a few pesos. One could hear rooftop conversations and an occasional conversation themselves with the higher up ollia holder looking down to the cobblestoned streets. Bella’s Artes was surrounded by very small hotels that provided your first basket of corn cobs to fire up just enough water for a very short, somewhat warm shower. After that, listening for the bells on the donkey carrying cob refills by paying it’s master the correct change of five pesos and an extra one or two as a tip was that which schedules were built from. The fall and winter weather reminded me of San Francisco Bay area as did the walks required to go anywhere. There were cars with a driver that could be rented from the singular gringo welcoming hotel just off the main square. An early morning walk to the mercado was required for a licuado, fresh bread, fruit and veggies in only a daily quantity. I am fortunate to have been there to have met a lady who made her living weaving a circular reboso with arm holes a third the way from the short fringed arc. The rojo rica color was her signature no other weaver could replicate. It warmed me for more than a decade until I misplaced it on further travels. I am so fortunate to have experienced the magical mysteries of a yet still sleepy destination while it was so. It slowed the typical gringo pace while elevating the souls of all there. The locals interacted to be kind and naturally helpful. It was a joy to receive their considerate attitude. It encouraged one to be generous with any considerations, feeling fortunate to be blessed with the fulfillment of the smallest of needs. It gave new meaning for the gifts of mindfulness.

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      2. One thing that cannot be dismissed is the significant influx of Mexican nationals from Mexico City, drowning out the ex-pats in rising prices in Centro and elsewhere. The net result is the same, no matter the cause. I saw this in Lake Tahoe many many years ago and now in Reno and pretty much everywhere outside of a megapolis.

        On another note, if one seeks a more “local” experience, this can be had a mere few miles from San Miguel. There are many communities scattered around, most within 10 miles (a local bus ride for 8 pesos) from centro. And….much quieter unless the traveler has an aversion to roosters and fireworks and late night weekend long parties. But that’s Mexico and part of the charm that draws people here.

        We live in that more rural zone and rarely venture into centro and we rent long term from a local landlord, albeit at ex-pat prices. Everyone jumps on the bandwagon at some point. We also support the local vendors because money spent in the community tends to be recycled in the community.

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      3. Thank you for sharing this. I’ve spent over 30 years traveling to and from SMA and may family built a home there so long ago that we still enjoy. I Essentially grew up there part time and have seen the town evolve. I used to be one of the kids that would jump on the backs of the vw bugs and pickup trucks to get around town, as us kids did, if you remember that.

        This article is wrong in SO many ways, but I appreciate your sentiments as you seem to understand what it’s really about and what is really worth talking about. 🙂

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        1. Hi Dan,
          You’re definitely not alone. The majority of people see SMA through the same lens you do. Would you care to elaborate on how this article is wrong? I understand if you think it’s “wrong” because the sentiment, impressions, and opinions are not the same as yours, but the numbers and statistics were taken from real data.

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    17. I have lived full and part time in a different Mexican city that is also very popular with North American tourists and benefits and suffers from the income brought in and the inequality exacerbated by the influx of wealthy visitors. And while I am not going to bring up corrections or comments by other commenters on expat population and the history of Mexico and forced incorporation of foreign concepts. I applaud your suggestion of supporting local businesses such as restaurants and lodging options. We always try to do the same, only opting for chains at airport locations, when other options are scarce. I do want to focus on one particular thing lightly mentioned in the article and offer one suggestion. The key thing that makes life difficult for locals making local wages driven by local cost structures is when the cost of housing, especially rents go up. The cost of housing and commercial rents makes it difficult for local, meaning Mexicans who live and work there, cannot afford to maintain their place of business or home and are forced to leave. This is a tragedy that is many times over in tourism hotspots and when their business is replaced by expat or corporate entities, the very essence of the place suffers as well as the people who have taken the direct hit. What is the cause? The article clearly states that average home prices in San Miguel Allende have passed the Mexican stratosphere of 10 million pesos (USD$540,000). This is simply not sustainable for locals nor middle class North Americans who like to visit. In my nearly 20 years in Mexico, I have noticed one great gulf in conversations with my American and Mexican friends. In nearly every conversation with the gringo crowd, the conversation will eventually turn to real estate. Con los mexicanos, the conversation steers amongst the topics of family, sports, local happenings, politics, what crazy things are going on in the USA, etc., but never real estate. This rings true even with those who have a hand in the real estate business. Mexicans prefer not to talk much about work in a social setting. So, in my opinion, it is the mark of the beast of American-style capitalism, the voracious real estate market, that is at least a source of the trouble you present in San Miguel Allende. Finally, I would like to offer a suggestion that like the article itself, presents a façade, rather than the complete picture, regarding lodging. Many Mexicans are married to gringos or have family in the USA and own homes they put up for rent using platforms such as Airbnb and VBRO and list a USA phone number for contacts. While it may be assumed that a +1 phone number is that of an expat, it is not necessarily so. Mexicans are savvy to the nuances of USA culture and know that a contact in San Diego is more trusted and more apt to be called than a number in San Miguel among their foreign guests. So, by bypassing listings with +1 numbers may feel like one is supporting only locals, may just be yet another façade as savvy Mexicans who understand the gringo mind may be left out.

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      1. Hi Tim,

        Thank you so much for your thoughtful comment and for elaborating on some of the topics. I especially like your point about how San Miguel’s increased tourism factor is both a benefit and a detriment to the city—a sort of catch 22. This is largely why I try to encourage travelers to break the cycle by spending their tourism dollars in ways that will benefit the local communities the most. And yes, the real estate situation in SMA is unbelievable actually, regardless of the destination. (I got a vacation rental suggested to me for SMA the other day that started at $1,180 a night, for instance.) But you’re right, I think it comes down simply to American capitalism and the insatiable hunger for exploiting “a great deal.”

        And you’re right that having a +1 phone number is not 100% always as it seems and shouldn’t be a deal breaker on its own. However, I do think it is something to take into consideration in combination with other factors. Maybe just to say that while it’s not a telltale sign of foreign enterprise, it does serve to move the needle in that direction in the absence of other details.

        Again, thank you so much for your thoughtful comments, Tim; I really appreciate you taking the time to share.

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        1. Thank you for taking the time to read and reply to my comment. I would likely tip over at the thought of 1180 a night for a place to rest for the night. I’d far rather a tenth of that at a local place and stay for 10 days to get in touch with the place, the people, and the local happenings. But to each their own and for some, such a sum is not a deal breaker. I have thought a great deal over the years about what I call “sustainable tourism” and “personal ecology” and would surely like to discuss some time some ideas with you. Meanwhile, happy and safe travels.

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          1. Exactly what you said! Often, the less you spend on accommodation, the richer the experience you have. 🙂 To each his own, definitely, but calling this the “world’s best city” for these exact luxurious reasons seems quite misguided. Happy to chat, Tim and same to you!

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            1. Maybe the $1,180 per night was actually in pesos? That would make more sense… Also, I live here and would love to know the taxi driver that charges 3 bucks to drive 30 minutes.

            2. Unfortunately, it was definitely USD. There are a NUMBER of high-priced rentals in SMA. Just unbelievable prices actually.

      2. Marieke Hemp says:

        Hi Tim,
        thank you for your balanced view of life in Mexico. I’ve lived in San Miguel de Allende full-time for a few years now and you are correct, the article is rather one-sided to the “poor poor Mexicans” side. What the writer doesn’t understand is that you really can’t compare life here to what’s happening in the US (where I left because of the toxic right-wing politics). No, I didn’t buy real estate, the prices are crazy. But rental prices are not, which is baffling.
        Many of the lovely houses that are advertised for sale at a half million dollars and more, can easily be rented for under $1,000 US/month (try that in the US!!!). Utilities are next to nothing. The gringos pay whatever the Mexicans ask for.
        There are loads of US and Canadian run not-for-profits here, and almost all gringos are involved in some kind of volunteer work. Most of us are retired and don’t have much to do, so we pick a sector we love (in my case, it’s working with animals at shelters and at special spay/neuter events that the Mexicans really appreciate, helping locals who are out of work with food and supplies) there are so many things to choose from that are fun for us and necessary for the Mexicans.
        Mexicans are family-oriented to the max. During the pandemic, in a town of about 200,000, we saw NOT ONE SINGLE homeless person. Loads of people lost their jobs because restaurants and hotels had to close. The gringos worked hard helping those jobless people, but the main thing: the families helped themselves and each other. If someone loses his/her job, he/she moves in with relatives, end of conversation. There’s not even a debate about that. Family comes first. Here kids don’t really leave home after high school, they like living with their families — as opposed to the US where the young ones can’t wait to get out of the house and into a college dorm for a “free” life which often involves partying, drinking, and drugs. I had never experienced that strong a sense of family before, and it was lovely to see and made the pandemic a bit less scary.

        So, please: every single country has its advantages and disadvantages. I was received with warmth and openness when the USA became threatening, racist, and violent. For many years, I lived in other countries, in Europe and in Central America, so I do have something to compare Mexico to — as opposed to the US people who scream how much they love the US and that it’s the BEST country in the world. Excuse me, but most of those people have never set foot into another country so they are just blathering and repeating platitudes. They get their information from dubious publications and TV stations, and their “rah rah rah” is disgusting.
        Anyway, this is really the best country I have ever lived in, and I know what I’m talking about. The writer of the article was very busy finding disadvantages to living here, but really, that’s a lot of baloney and does not help anybody. I can tell you about a whole lot more disadvantages to living in the US — lived there for over 30 years and don’t ever want to go back there. And no, I’m not rich. I’m living off social security and some savings, and live so much better here than I ever could in the US. Above all, I live here without fear.
        Marieke

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    18. Where do I start? Don’t move here as an American? An influx of wealthy people despite increasing real estate is never a bad thing for the local economy. The answer, which you somehow ignored, lies with proper governing. Raise taxes on these wealthy residents and redistribute it toward education, health care, subsidized housing, etc.

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      1. Hi Adam,
        I would say that if an influx of wealthy foreigners drives the cost of living up so high that over 48% percent of the population finds itself in a state of “moderate” or “extreme” poverty (as is the case in San Miguel de Allende), then that is indeed a bad thing.

        The fact that I “somehow ignored” addressing proper governing is because that’s not what this article is about. As I said to another commenter: The purpose of this article is to challenge Travel and Leisure’s repeated designation of SMA as the “best city in the world.” It’s also to alert would-be visitors to the real situations hidden beneath SMA’s shallow luxury, to help them manage their expectations, and to hopefully encourage them to contribute to the local communities rather than (or at least in addition to) an expat’s exploitation of it.

        Most socially conscious travelers appreciate knowing how their presence affects local communities and where their tourism dollars go. Hopefully now they will see that maybe they should skip this improperly-governed city, as you’ve pointed out.

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        1. Fact check, 1810 was the year of Mexican independence from Spain. Porfirio Diaz was the President of Mexico from 1877 for 31 years.

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    19. Mary Memmons says:

      Mexico City is wonderful, but I’m not sure it’s a good comparison to San Miguel. As a warning, many cities in Mexico, small and large, are heavily influenced by the European invasion. I think, if you are looking for an authentic experience, I rather like the gulf coast town of Sisal or possibly Progresso (though cruise ships stop there two days a week). Many indigenous people live there and it is very quiet and quaint.

      Reply

      1. Hi Mary! Yes, Mexico City is wonderful. Thank you for mentioning two more cities that travelers might not know about. (That’s too bad about the cruise ships though.)

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    20. I have lived in SMA for almost 15 years. I am a permanent resident – fulltime. Your math is way off. The number of expats is between 7 and 10,000 in a municipality of 180,000 citizens. That’s about 5 to 7% of the population. Not 20%
      If you visit San Miguel and stay in Centro, as most visitors seem to, you have a limited experience of the city.
      To keep this short, what has happened to SMA and so many other cities around the world is rampant Capitalism. It is not just from some wealthy foreigners from some 50+ nations around the world ( As is true in SMA.); but more so also from the wealthy Mexican elites who flood daily into the city.
      The inequality in Mexico is much like that in the US.
      Housing in the elite compounds is out of sight for most of us
      Wonderfully those of us who live here, live mostly in the five hundreds of small Mexican communities enriched by the beauty of the Mexican people and their culture, life and love.

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      1. Hi Jim,

        Thank you for schooling me in math. Obviously, what my colleague has done is weigh the 10k expats against the 60k population of San Miguel, not the greater municipality, which equals 16%. Regardless, using up-to-date figures and including the entire municipality (which is pretty irrelevant where tourists are concerned) the ratio still hovers around 10%. You can read that here and here for starters. Also, the latest census data (2020) count the population of San Miguel de Allende at 174,615—not 180,000. (48.56% of whom are in a state of “moderate” to “extreme” poverty for that matter.)

        Obviously, short-term visitors have a limited experience of SMA as they do of most cities. The purpose of this article is to challenge Travel and Leisure’s repeated designation of SMA as the “best city in the world.” It’s also to alert would-be visitors to the real situations hidden beneath SMA’s shallow luxury, to help them manage their expectations, and to hopefully encourage them to contribute to the local communities rather than (or at least in addition to) an expat’s exploitation of it.

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        1. Maria Wall says:

          Exploitation? If there is a seller and a buyer, that is commerce. The expats most likely are also creating jobs that would not otherwise be there. The reality of any where in the world that wants tourists — and Mexico DOES, is that popular places to visit will attract those who want to buy and live there. The same is true in the Southeast U.S. Folks from the North come to have a better quality of life. I don’t think ex- Pat’s are the problem, per se. I think it is anyone young or old who doesn’t live with love and respect for one anothe and think they ate smarter or better or entitled.

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